Above and Below Deck
One unique destination. Two different unforgettable overnight experiences.
Sleeping Under the Stars
WORDS Carolyne Jasinski
Here I lie, totally exposed to the elements, in the middle of the ocean, and I can’t sleep. I have a bed, a swish Reefbed on the top deck of the Cruise Whitsundays Reefworld pontoon that sits on the edge of the Great Barrier Reef. There’s just a sheet, a mosquito net and a canvas cover for protection. But it’s not discomfort keeping me awake. It’s FOMO that won’t let me rest – the fear of missing out.
My Reefbed is a front-row seat to one of the great natural wonders of the world. At 2,300km long, it’s the largest reef in the world – even visible from space. And I am being treated to an exclusive, after-hours exposé. By definition, glamping is a mix of glamour and camping. Cruise Whitsundays’ Reefsleep experience could be the wildest – and most exhausting – glamping experience I’ve ever had.
It’s an action-packed marine-based adventure, from the 2.5-hour cruise from Hamilton Island (longer if you start at Airlie Beach) to a day of snorkelling and semi-submersible rides to optional helicopter flights and diving expeditions.
My mind is trying to process all the underwater wonders, from fluorescent fish ducking in and out of protective coral gardens, to damselfish dancing on the currents and George, the 350kg Queensland groper who has taken up residence below the pontoon.
When the Cruise Whitsundays catamaran leaves at 3pm with the day-trippers, the Reefsleep special treatment starts, beginning with having the reef to ourselves until 5pm. Then the snacks, drinks, canapés and dinner congo kicks off.
“The Pacific Ocean laps against the pontoon – lit from the depths so we can see the underwater action.”
Dinner is not the slap-dash affair you might expect at such a remote location. There’s a private chef onboard serving a maximum of 28 guests spread across 16 Reefbeds and the two underwater reef suites. And while I do feel a little guilty enjoying the delicious seafood given how close I felt to them earlier, it’s not enough to dampen my appetite. After dinner, it’s the sky’s turn to shine. Stars twinkle and the moon is so bright, I can see clouds drifting as satellites race across the sky. The Pacific Ocean laps against the pontoon – lit from the depths so we can see the underwater action. I must nod off eventually because the sunrise is like a warm hug and the smell of coffee brewing and bacon frying is a gentle alarm clock. At 9am, the lifeguards are back on duty so those who stayed overnight can indulge in the reef before the crowd returns. For now, I’m happy to hibernate in my little pontoon cocoon.
A once in a lifetime experience: sleep under the stars while you float atop the Great Barrier Reef with Reefsleep.
A Night in an Underwater Hotel
WORDS Kate Webster
Being an avid scuba diver, the idea of sleeping underwater absolutely thrills me. As I descend the stairs at the Cruise Whitsundays pontoon on Hardy Reef and turn the corner into the Reefsuites, I gasp. The suite is literally underwater.
Mesmerising and lulling, the tank-like views of sealife from a Reefsuites’ stay is a unique experience.
A sense of calm instantly sweeps over me with the blue hues illuminating the room adding to the zen sensation. This is quickly replaced with excitement and a sense of wonder as I peer through the wall-to-ceiling glass window. Fish of all sizes dart in front of me – small fish that look like glittering confetti, striped fish that hang together in schools and large golden trevally stalking from a distance. I am told that George the groper and a resident turtle often pay a visit too, so I keep my eyes peeled for them.
The two Reefsuites are the luxury option to the Reefbeds and offer a remarkable and immersive stay. The suites are cosy and intimate, with sleek contemporary furnishings, a luxurious bed, soft bathrobes and a private ensuite bathroom (and yes, a loo with a view like you never imagined). The main attraction, however, is what goes on in the ocean just outside the walls.
Waking up in the Reefsuite is a surreal experience. I open my eyes and am greeted by an extraordinary vista – a vast wall of glass unveiling the mesmerising underwater realm. The vibrant coral formations sway gently, and a kaleidoscope of colourful fish dart playfully around. It is a breathtaking sight that leaves me in sheer wonderment. Even though I can’t see the sun rising in the sky, I know the morning is dawning by the way the light filters through the water.
“I open my eyes and am greeted by an extraordinary vista – a vast wall of glass unveiling the mesmerising underwater realm.”
Having the sea life entertain me through the night, it is now time to head upstairs and jump into the water for a snorkel with my new fish friends. With the day guests to the pontoon yet to arrive and the glamping guests upstairs slowly waking up, I have the reef all to myself. Aware that I would want more time on this special part of the Great Barrier Reef, I booked a scuba dive to explore the reef's depths, revealing an even greater tapestry of marine wonders.
All the excitement helps me work up my appetite and lucky for my hungry stomach, the culinary experience at the pontoon is nothing short of exceptional. The expert chef showcases the region's finest flavours, crafting delectable dishes that incorporate fresh seafood and local produce. From succulent grilled barramundi to tantalising tropical fruit platters, every meal is a celebration of the senses.
As the day-trippers arrive, the tranquil ambience transforms into buzzing excitement. I feel even more grateful for being able to experience the luxury of the Reefsuite and the serene oasis of the reef in solitude. A day visit is great, but staying overnight is even better. Without the crowds, I found myself immersed in an uninterrupted symphony of local marine life in surroundings of exquisite beauty, the perfect setting for contemplation and connection.
Sleep on the Reef
Considering an overnight stay on the Great Barrier Reef? Here is what you need to know.
GETTING THERE
Cruise Whitsundays delivers you to the Reefworld pontoon on the catamaran from Airlie Beach and Hamilton Island.
STAYING THERE
Reefsleep starts from $650 pp for a double Reefbed, and the Reefsuite luxury experience starts from $1,050 pp for a suite.