BY NUMBERS
Transcontinental Gems
Discover a trip across Australia that takes you from vast ocean views, across the desert to rugged wilderness in one fell swoop.
WORDS Tim Richards PHOTOGRAPHY Joe Wigdah, Tourism Western Australia
Standing at the end of Busselton (Undalup) Jetty provides me with a lesson in nature. The view over Geographe Bay is humbling – the expanse of water is a nod to the sheer force of nature, and you can’t help but feel introspective when looking out. The 1.8-kilometre structure I’m standing on – loved by the township – is one of the many highlights on the epic eight-day Gems of the South West holiday package. My highlight reel is a sparkling example of why this trip across the country is so special.
FROM FOREST TO LAKE
Departing from Perth (Boorloo), our first stop is Dwellingup’s Forest Discovery Centre in the heart of the Northern Jarrah Forest. This leafy theme continues among the karri and marri trees of the Manjimup region further south, where we enjoy high tea at the historic Blackwood Emporium 1864 and check in to the Karri Valley Resort on Lake Beedelup for two nights. There’s a visit to the lofty Gloucester Tree at Pemberton (Lilwat Nation), once used for fire-spotting, before heading to Cape Leeuwin (Doogalup) and the Margaret River (Wooditup) region, with its many gastronomic highlights (including the magical combination of wine, food, art and music at a lunch at Leeuwin Estate Winery).
GOLD, DESERT, AND TREATS
After a cruise in Mandurah (Mandjoogoordap) and an excursion to the quokka paradise of Rottnest Island (Wadjemup), it’s time to board the Indian Pacific for a three-night rail journey, crossing the continents from Perth to Sydney (Warrane). We take a late-night tour of gold-mining hub Kalgoorlie and spend much of the next day crossing the dusty red earth of the Nullarbor Plain (Oondiri), crackled by the sun’s relentless enthusiasm. When we arrive in Adelaide (Tarndanya), there are several Off Train Experiences on offer. I opt for the Central Market Progressive Breakfast, which focuses on the city’s quality produce. Arriving at the historic market, we’re met by a local guide, who has expert knowledge of the traders – they seem more like friends than vendors. As we weave our way through specialty stalls, we sample a variety of their wares – including Turkish delight, vegetable pancakes, empanadas, cheese, and coffee. It’s more than enough for breakfast, with a serving of history and food culture on the side.
EXPLORE THE MOUNTAINS
Following a final evening on board, the Indian Pacific reaches the Blue Mountains (Gulu-Mada) – a ruggedly beautiful World Heritage-listed area. Here, I am again humbled by nature, but in a different way. Our first stop is the Scenic Skyway cable car, which glides above the rainforest and ancient ravines. It then descends 500 metres to the valley floor, from where the Scenic Railway runs – the steepest passenger railway in the world. The finale is at Echo Point (Colomatta) lookout, where lunch is served against a backdrop of views across to the Three Sisters and Jamison Valley. Boarding the train for the final leg to Sydney, I’m struck by just how incredible this adventure has been.
“Here, I am again humbled by nature, but in a different way.”
Gems of the South West by numbers...
Final length of Busselton Jetty in metres.
Number of cellar doors in the Margaret River wine region.
Height in metres of the Gloucester Tree in the Karri forest near Pemberton.
Length in kiliometres of the world’s longest stretch of dead-straight railway track, encountered on the Nullarbor Plain (Oondiri).
The number of tonnes of gold produced annually by Kalgoorlie’s (Wongatha) Super Pit.
Number of quokkas on Rottnest Island.