IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD…
Exmouth
Found on the traditional land and sea country of the Baiyungu, Thalanyji and Yinigurdira people, Exmouth has more than its fair share of wonders at its fingertips, It’s the perfect place to ease back into reality after a dream-like stay at Sal Salis.
WORDS Fleur Bainger
PHOTOGRAPHY Tourism Western Australia
It’s almost impossible to pull yourself away from barefoot luxury haven, Sal Salis. There aren’t many places where you can wake up and look through gauze curtains to see a kangaroo on your deck and dune views luring your eyes only 50m to the ocean. Not when you’re also lying in a real bed beneath a vaulted canvas in one of just 16 eco tents. The exclusive location, ocean access and included activities put Sal Salis in a class of its own. Here, you can snorkel over coral gardens directly out front, swing in your private hammock, or laze in the open-air lodge while making friends with fellow guests. If you’re feeling active, there’s a guided hike of the rock formations of Cape Range National Park, which lies only two kilometres behind Sal Salis. At Mandu Mandu Gorge, discover ancient fossils and traces of human habitation, such as hair and shell beads estimated to be 32,000 years old, while spotting black-footed rock wallabies. Return to sunset canapes chased by a multicourse dinner at Sal Salis, created by the resident chef.
When you do have to leave, ease yourself back into the ‘real world’ with a day exploring Exmouth (Ningaloo. Here’s where to set your compass.
PLAY
Once you’ve disconnected and reconnected at Sal Salis, head into Exmouth to take a step towards regular life. Found on the traditional land and sea country of the Baiyungu, Thalanyji and Yinigurdira people, Exmouth has more than its fair share of wonders still. A 16-minute drive from the town (or a seven-minute drive from Sal Salis) is the Jurabi Turtle Centre, specialising in marine turtle education. Learn about the life cycle of marine turtles, as well as their nesting behaviours and the many predatory threats they face.
As the sun softens, drive to a Ningaloo icon, only 30 minutes to the southwest. Turquoise Bay was named the third-best beach in the world in TripAdvisor’s 2022 Traveller’s Choice Awards. Its soft stretch of sand leads to easy-access coral gardens, hundreds of colourful fish species and, if you watch carefully, turtles and rays. The best part is the gentle current: walk a few hundred metres south along the beach, then swim out and drift snorkel all the way back. Just be sure to swim into the-shallows before you reach the tip of the beach, as the current strengthens and swings away at this point.
MUST-DO
If you didn’t manage to roll out of your hammock at Sal Salis to meet the mammoths of the reef, the now is the time to set off on a whale shark swim (the season runs from March to July). Live Ningaloo offers a greater chance of close encounters with the world’s largest fish. Most tour boats take 20 guests, but Live Ningaloo accepts only 10 – which is the maximum number of snorkellers allowed in the water with a gentle giant at any one time. That means splashing in every time one is spotted. A marine scientist is on hand with facts and figures, while a professional photographer captures the magic underwater, gifting you the images. You’ll likely also see giant manta rays and, depending on the season, humpback whales also make an appearance (June to November).
EAT
With so many visitors up early to join whale shark swim charters, many of Exmouth’s cafes kick into gear at dawn. Hit Earlybird Café, Mutt’s Café or Coffee Cartel for awakening brews, while organic, vegan and vegetarian needs can be met from 7am at The Social Society. Think vegan banana pancake stack with caramelised pineapple, or spiced smashed pumpkin dotted with fetta and chickpeas.
Spend lunchtime under shade sails at The Beach Shack, or find fresh sushi at Bamboo. Keep your eyes peeled for food trucks, most often found at Town Beach or Hunters Beach (the Visitor Centre can share times). Pop into Ningaloo Bakehouse for country-town-style pastries and take the kids to Sweet Ningaloo for artisan gelato. There are more than 50 different flavours – including unconventional ones like lavender, or candy cane, which blends peppermint essence with sour cherry sauce – so factor in deliberation time.
Come evening, Whalebone Brewing Company’s chic, open-air shed is an easy place to lose a few hours (and there’s a kids play area). Spirits are distilled and brews are crafted on-site. Froth Craft Brewery is a valid alternative, not least for its live music and community events line-up. Post-brew, dine on local seafood at Adrift Café – try the ginger coconut prawns, Szechuan encrusted calamari or the ever-pleasing seafood linguine.
The Details
TOUR
Wake up to the sounds of the ocean, the calming sea breeze, and the serenity that only nature can give. The exclusive location, ocean access and activities make Sal Salis as much a once-in-a-lifetime experience as swimming with Ningaloo’s whale sharks in the marine park the property faces. Before or after visiting Exmouth, book a stay at this luxury haven.