BY NUMBERS
Timeless Tapestry
Soar over epic waterfalls, visit ancient rock art galleries, and camp in luxury in one of Australia's most secluded destinations in the Kimberley.
WORDS Anna Christensen
In a world where natural wonders and ‘secret’ spots get endlessly shared, ‘grammed, and slammed with tourists, the inaccessibility of Ngauwudu (the Mitchell Plateau) is nearly as noteworthy as its beauty. This sprawl of Kimberley wilderness is home to ice-age-era rock art, tropical palms, and spectacular waterfalls. It’s also so remote that it’s a 250km drive to the nearest shop to buy necesseties like bread or milk.
Luckily, at Ngauwudu Safari Camp, one of only two lodgings in the area (and by far the most luxurious), you won’t be fussed about groceries – or much of anything else. The exclusive lodgings redefine glamping with plush hotel-worthy beds, all-inclusive gourmet fare, and unrestricted access to the area’s most incredible sights.
Arriving at your destination is an experience in itself. Choose by land or sky – a road trip through rainforests and red earth on a five-star Mercedez Benz fleet or a Cessna flight, both powered by Outback Spirit. Once you settle into your solar-powered safari suite, peel back your tent to reveal a private decked verandah overlooking the peaceful palm and eucalypt forests of Ngauwudu.
These ancient lands are etched with culture, tended by the Wunambal people, who have been custodians of the land for 70,000 years. Across sandstone boulders and inside caves, you can find evidence of this longstanding connection in rock art galleries – some dating back 60,000 years. The elegant red ochre Gyorn Gyorn Paintings (also known as the Bradshaws) are among the earliest figurative paintings ever made.
Meanwhile, art in the Wandjina tradition features deities, human figures and animals, including extinct fat-tailed kangaroos and thylacines. These natural marvels are on full display on a three-hour guided walking tour to Punamii-unpuu (Mitchell Falls) – Mitchell Plateau’s most famous attraction. With the help of your Indigenous local guide, stop to admire rock art and native mammals – in between catching your breath and cooling off in secret waterholes, natural spas, and smaller waterfalls. The hike may be long, but it's worth it. Picture a spectacular waterfall tumbling down four tiers of jagged red Kimberley rock into emerald pools.
Punamii-unpuu is a sacred space for the Indigenous people of the plateau and a powerful story place. It’s also mesmerising – equally pretty in dry season (a soothing trickle down four visible tiers) or wet season (a thunderous roar that blends the tiers into two). While you can’t swim in the Falls for cultural reasons, you can plunge into the long pool above the Falls. And just when you think it can’t get any better, it does. You’ll be whisked home in a helicopter, offering a bird's-eye view of this otherworldly sight that few ever witness.
Back at the safari camp, taste Indigenous flavours in your gourmet fare, infused with native botanicals like wattleseeds and Geraldton wax. Eat inside the architecturally designed restaurant or outside on the deck against a canopy of trees and a famous Kimberley sunset. Or gather around the campfire to share stories. At night, crack open the roof vents of your safari tent, so you can gaze up at the endlessly starry sky – a reminder that quiet seclusion is really the ultimate luxury.
NGAUWUDU BY NUMBERS…
The number of solar-powered safari suites with private verandahs.
The species of mammals that call the Mitchell Plateau home.
The height, in metres, of Punamii-unpuu, a four-tiered waterfall.
Outback Spirit tours that visit Ngauwudu Safari camp.
The age of the incredible Gyorn Gyorn rock art paintings.
The area in square metres that Ngauwudu covers.