Holidays are often so well-researched before the flights are even booked. What’s the easiest way to get somewhere? Is it better to fly or catch a bus? What is a stranger on the internet rating this trip out of five? But no amount of googling can prepare you for a visit to Horizontal Falls (Gaaraangadim) in the Kimberley.

The Horizontal Falls are located off the coast of the Kimberley region in Western Australia. You get there by seaplane – you know, the planes with the big skis? Hot tip – if you get offered the seat next to the pilot up front – take it! The view from above will be hardwired into your core holiday memories; the way the veiny water system bleeds into the land, the rolling green hills, a cow here and there, the trademark colour palette of the Kimberley with its dusty pinks, bright blues, every variation of green and rich ochre … it all feels very otherworldly.

I’m blown away already, and then the pilot says “Just wait for it…” and we take a turn and cut through dramatic red cliffs on either side of us and we’re met with the most beautiful turquoise water of Talbot Bay (Ganbadba). It’s very Top Gun meets outback Australia, which is actually not a bad idea, Hollywood. Thank me later. In the distance, there’s a white landing – it’s this mysterious pontoon everyone keeps talking about. “We’ll land at the pontoon, we’ll have lunch on the pontoon, we’re staying on the pontoon.” In my head a pontoon is on the side of the river, it’s small, it’s something you might sit on with an Esky and cast a line off. This pontoon is a little different – it’s much bigger, is surrounded by water and is the epicentre of all activity on the bay. Seaplanes are flying in, boats are coming and going along with a constant stream of lucky visitors with huge grins.