Some journeys Stay with you.
This journey changes you.
WORDS Matthew White
From green ants to ancient songs, this 13-day journey through Arnhem Land changed how Outback Spirit’s product manager Matthew White sees Australia – and himself.
It’s almost impossible to comprehend the idea of a culture so deeply connected to place that it spans over 60,000 years. A century? Maybe even two? Fathomable. But six hundred centuries? It’s a lot to wrap my head around.
And yet, here we were – alive in this moment – given a rare glimpse into that world, about to experience something unforgettable.
Our guide greeted us in traditional language when we arrived at Gove in eastern Arnhem Land. Those first words’ warmth and authenticity set the tone for our Arnhem Land Wetlands & Wildlife tour. Right away, it was clear: this was not just a tour. This journey was something more.
A CULTURE SHARED, A WELCOME FELT
The following morning, on the beach at Nhulunbuy, we were treated to a moving Welcome to Country and Women’s Healing demonstration. Three generations of Yolŋu women danced together – grandmothers, mothers and daughters – the eldest guiding the youngest with grace and pride. It was joyful; in many ways, it captured the spirit of the journey to come.
Everywhere we went, the message from Traditional Owners was the same: You are welcome. They were proud we had travelled so far to
visit their home, and they wanted to share their stories, their culture and their land with us.
Being guided by local Traditional Owners and hearing them speak in their language was powerful. But what stayed with me was witnessing how closely their land and culture are entwined. They live in harmony with Country – working with it, not against it. They read its signals, learn from its cycles and use its resources with knowledge passed down over millennia.
SEEING THROUGH THEIR EYES
At each Outback Spirit lodge, we had the privilege of learning directly from Traditional Owners. We got to see and experience the world through their eyes. Whether we were licking green ants for a citrusy sugar hit or crushing leaves to use as a natural mosquito repellent, every moment offered insight into how deep their knowledge runs.
We learned about ancient bird hunting techniques. We heard stories tied to the land and water. We began to understand how to use different plants for bush tucker, medicine, tools, canoes and even weapons.
What struck me most was how practical and often intuitive it all was. This knowledge, now generously shared with us, was gathered over thousands of years by those living on the land. It was humbling.
THE POWER OF CONNECTION
We travelled from east to west, across one of the most ancient, untouched landscapes on Earth. At every turn, the scenery was breathtaking: soaring escarpments, billabongs teeming with birdlife, water buffalo and crocodiles. And I’ve never seen such spectacular sunsets before in my life – just the perfect calming end to each day.
But perhaps the most surprising part of the experience was the way our group connected. There were 20 of us on the tour. Strangers at first. But over our 13 days together, something shifted. Whether it was chatting on day trips, reflecting over sunset drinks, or comparing highlights at dinner, sharing these moments enhanced the adventure.
People swapped numbers, addresses and emails. Planned reunions. Hearing each other’s stories reinforced our memories. It was like verbalising our dreams: everyone had a different story to tell, a fresh observation of a moment or a unique daily highlight that added more depth to an already remarkable trip.
A JOURNEY THAT CHANGES YOU
This trip wasn’t ‘just’ a sightseeing holiday. It was a slow unfurling – a shift in perspective. The Yolŋu people’s kindness, humour and profound generosity were unforgettable, and turned any preconceived ideas I had on their head.
I left with a profound sense of awe, not just for the land, but also for the people who care for it. And I must say, our driver and guide, Glen, played no small part in that transformation. His passion, generosity, knowledge, warmth and care elevated every moment. Nothing was too much. No question went unanswered. No one left behind. His storytelling was as much a part of the experience as the place itself.
The old saying that it’s about the journey not the destination was never more apt.
THE DETAILS
TOUR
Travel deep into one of Australia’s most remote and culturally rich regions with the Arnhem Land Wetlands & Wildlife tour. Over 13 days, you’ll journey across East Arnhem Land in a small group, guided by Traditional Owners and expert guides, staying in exclusive lodges and immersing in the stories, landscapes and traditions of the Yolŋu people. From $12,995 per person twin share.