Core memories on The Ghan
When 13-year-old Sarayu boarded The Ghan with her family, she didn’t just ride the rails – she captured the wonder in her own words. This postcard is a reminder that some journeys are best told through young eyes.
WORDS Sarayu Reddy Vangala
When I first heard that my family were going on The Ghan, I was excited, but didn’t really know what to expect. That excitement quickly turned into concern when I realised there would be limited internet and not many other guests my age. Which for a 13-year-old felt like the end of the world. But as it turns out, disconnection, meeting new people and soaking in the Australian outback is an experience like no other. And one that exceeded all of my expectations.
From the moment we boarded the train, I was treated like royalty – from the service to the complimentary bag of goodies. After filming a room tour of our twin gold class cabin (for the memories), I went out to explore the train, finding myself in the Outback Explorer Lounge. This lounge was one of my favourite places on The Ghan. Here, I could meet cool, older people and order whatever I liked, whenever. Which for a 13-year-old, was the coolest thing ever.
And so was the food! The Queen Adelaide Restaurant served up food that tasted fantastic! Every meal was a fancy three-course (including breakfast) filled with native Australian flavours. Some of my favourite dishes were the heirloom carrot tart, crocodile dumplings, barramundi with sweet potato noodles and caviar (yes, I got to eat caviar, which was a big deal!), and kangaroo with a rosalia chutney. Then there were the desserts! I loved each one.
Returning to our cabin after dinner was a treat of its own. While you are having dinner, The Ghan’s staff transform the cabin’s cushioned seats into stacked sleepers (complete with a ladder) and a chocolate on each bed. Obviously I slept on the upper bed, falling asleep within moments thanks to the gentle rocking of the train. Waking up to a beautiful sunrise over the red sands of the Outback was probably one of my favourite views.
Spending time off The Ghan was just as good as the time on it. At each stop there were three or four different Off Train Experiences (or mini adventures) to choose from. During our visit to Nitmiluk Gorge, Katherine, we joined the cruise that travelled through two different sections of the gorge that had lots of Aboriginal rock art.
The next day, The Ghan stopped at Alice Springs (Mparntwe), where we explored the town – including a war memorial, art gallery featuring Indigenous artists at work and a tasty buffet lunch – before starting three walks as part of the Simpsons Gap Tour. Of course, Simpsons Gap (Rungutjirpa) was stunning.
This was then followed by one of my favourite experiences of the trip: dinner at Telegraph Station. Starting off with a camel ride and delicious entrees was incredibly fun. Which was quickly followed by a blacksmith demonstration while live music played in the background. I spent the evening chatting with people at my table, making new friends: from a nan celebrating her 90th birthday to a retired high school principal. When the main courses were finished, we got to toast marshmallows over bonfires and ended the night dancing to live music under the stars – core memories!
During our final full day on The Ghan, our adventure took us to Coober Pedy (Umoona), an outback mining town where most of the homes are underground (isn’t that crazy!). Part of our Off Train Experience took us through dugouts and an old miners’ dugout, before stopping at a Greek-style buffet lunch – in a cave!
After lunch, we got to try out opal mining and I uncovered some pock – that’s really small pieces of opal. And no trip to Coober Pedy is complete without visiting The Breakaways. Not only are the large, colourful mounds stunning, but you can visit the Dingo Fence, the world’s longest fence (it’s 5,614 km long!). The Breakaways also have a little surprise waiting for visitors. Lots of flies! Bringing a fly net would be a smart idea.
When we returned to The Ghan, there was another surprise waiting outside for us. But don’t worry, no spoilers here.
On our last morning on The Ghan, I bawled my eyes out. I had an amazing time, full of core memories that will last a lifetime. I’m so grateful for everything I got to experience, no doubt my time on The Ghan will be the most fun I ever have on a train. Unless, of course, we go on another Journey Beyond rail journey.