Rolling through the Riverina
Riverina Rail trip proved to be as much of an exploration of one of Australia’s major food bowls as it was a step back in time riding Rolling Vintage Rail Journeys’ lovingly restored Southern Aurora carriages.
WORDS John Burfitt
There are things I remember as a little boy going to Sydney’s Central Station to wave my parents off as they embarked on the train formerly known as the Southern Aurora. Amidst the hustle and bustle, there were porters pushing trolleys of luggage, icemen with tubs of ice and attendants welcoming passengers aboard. Memories of those characters came flooding back recently as I strolled along Central’s Platform 1 and saw the sleek train waiting to depart. The original Southern Aurora service was decommissioned in 1986; today, its restored 1960s carriages have a second life with Vintage Rail Journeys, hosting adventures like the five-day Riverina Rail Tour I’m embarking on.
Aside from the thrill of riding the grand train through NSW’s wheat and sheep belt, there’s also the array of characters – both on and off the train. The on-board crew are like five-star hotel staff, offering high-end service while negotiating the swaying carriages.
Then there are the other passengers – those who love rail adventures, others wanting to explore the Riverina, and those celebrating, like the Perth couple marking their 70th birthdays. Adding charm to the 1,465km rail loop are the locals at each stop, including farmers, fishers, cheesemakers and winemakers with tales to tell. I was there for all of it.
ALL ABOARD! As I step into my cabin, it feels like a polished time capsule, complete with a comfy sofa, fold-down bunks and a neat ensuite. But it is the giant window that commands attention as the train pulls out, the suburbs giving way to national parks and the Illawarra coastline before heading to the interior via the Southern Highlands.
As we crest the Southern Highlands, there’s time for one of the Off Train Experiences. You might tour Bowral’s Retford Park, including the ‘Portuguese Pink’ mansion with sculpture-dotted gardens, or step into the Antique Mechanical Music Museum’s Fairground Follies for a guided whirl of self-playing organs, a century-old carousel and afternoon tea. Then it’s back on board as the countryside opens.
Back on the train, our first dinner is grilled mulloway fillet, followed by a cherry apple and blueberry galette. Our waiter Asher, who has slick Illawarra charm to spare, winks as he suggests, “The cake is the perfect way to get a trip off to the right start.” Asher was right on the money, as are all his dining recommendations over the coming days. After dinner, I waste no time returning to my cabin – my first time sleeping on a train. We’re on a siding in Goulburn, and the sound of distant trains lulls me to sleep.
RIDING THE RAILS I wake as the sun rises over rolling fields and head to the dining car for breakfast. This morning I’m sitting with Pam and Peter, the Perth couple celebrating their 70th birthdays. We compare train tales over poached pear compote and scrambled eggs on toast. Our waiter Asher, a veritable font of great detail about each stage of the trip, explains that, wherever possible, the menu features produce from the regions we pass through. “I’m not sure what they’re feeding the hens out here, but these eggs are delicious!” Pam says. We’re off the train for the Junee Licorice and Chocolate Factory, where an intoxicating aroma of cocoa and molasses greets us and the only things better than the hot chocolate are the chocolate bullets. Next up is lunch at the Coolamon Cheese Factory, where we sample the signature Labneh Chimichurri as manager Sarah Boyle explains that, “Our factory is owned by locals, and we make all our cheeses on site. While this is beef and crops country, we’re a reminder there is also dairy here, and we’re using food to keep the story of this town alive.” Back on the train heading west towards Leeton, I opt for a dinner of Chicken Galantine followed by a perfect Golden Steamed Pudding. As we pull into Leeton, the day’s many flavours linger.
INTO THE FOOD BOWL Each morning, I find I look forward to watching the Riverina wake up through the windows. Breakfast is a roasted vegetable frittata before we disembark to explore the Aquna Murray Cod Farm, the country’s leading producer of sustainably grown Murray cod. “We want visitors to understand that what ends up on their plate has been carefully produced, with minimal environmental impact,” Rachel Guest, our guide, says. “The farm started when a group of irrigators decided to try something new, and this is the future of responsible farming.” We’re next in Griffith for lunch at Calabria Family Wines. The wine tasting was fun, but the dishes that kept rolling out of the kitchen were every bit as good. “The Calabria family is one of the region’s oldest Italian families, and we wear that legacy with pride,” our waitress says as she brings us another pizza. The fruity wines are so good that I take a case of Richland Sauvignon Blanc home with me. Back on the train, and after our lunch feast, the delicious purple carrot soup is all that’s needed for dinner, just as we settle on a siding at Temora for the night.
STEP BACK IN TIME A breakfast of spinach and Persian fetta frittata is followed by a nostalgic morning at Railway Temora, the museum at the old station, which details the era when this was a major rail crossroads. There’s even a statue dedicated to Boofhead, the railway dog who ruled the roost at the station for decades. It’s a step back in time at the Bundawarrah Centre – Temora Rural Museum, with exhibits ranging from local fashion to old ambulances. Pride of place goes to cricket legend Donald Bradman’s first home, a humble construction of hardwood slabs. A volunteer guide nods toward the shack and observes it’s “proof that the greatest people can come from the most unlikely places. Our museum is about the legacy of life here in the Riverina.” Back on the train, we’re off on the longest stretch of the journey – 280 kilometres to Orange. The lounge car is busy with chatter, but it’s the rolling farmlands and rail towns that hold my attention. The sun’s down by the time we reach Orange, and for the final train dinner, I choose Pacific Ocean Swordfish followed by White Chocolate and Raspberry Dome. Fittingly, barman Noah serves a round of Riverina wines as a nightcap, and a group of us toast the adventure.
THE FINAL STRETCH I’m early to the dining car for breakfast, eager to see the sunrise over the Blue Mountains. I’m not disappointed – neither by the magnificent views nor the avocado on sweet potato toast with scrambled eggs. At Mount Victoria station, it’s icy as we step onto the platform for today’s adventures, first to the historic Zig Zag Railway – the original line before the tunnels streamlined the journey – and then to the boutique towns of Leura and Katoomba, where the lookout at Echo Point over the world-famous Three Sisters bring a collective gasp of “oohs” and “aahs.” In the late afternoon, it’s time for the final stretch across Sydney’s western suburbs and, all too soon, we’re back on Platform 1 at Central. It had long been my dream to ride the former Southern Aurora, but this train journey was much more, stitching together the places, people, and stories throughout the Riverina. I walk away down the platform, wondering what my next train journey should be.
The Details
Step aboard the beautifully restored Southern Aurora for a five-day all-inclusive journey through New South Wales’ Riverina region. Operated by Vintage Rail Journeys, this nostalgic adventure combines gourmet food, country hospitality and historic rail travel in comfort. 2026 departures run from February through to April, with prices starting from $3,690 for a Heritage Single cabin.