FIELD NOTES:
Stories from the Heart of Arnhem Land
David Petts, a guide with Outback Spirit, leads small groups on 13-day overland adventures from Nhulunbuy to the Cobourg Peninsula, in Arnhem Land, Northern Territory, one of Australia’s most remote and culturally rich regions. Here are his highlights.
An early start
Morning starts with a soft glow, the sun streaking the sky with gold. Then, the stillness gives way. It’s remarkable how alive the landscape becomes, as the magpie geese honk like trucks on a motorway, joined by small corellas, galahs and a choir of cockatoos. The dawn chorus has begun; signalling the start to our day in Arnhem Land.
Some guests will choose to take this moment for quiet reflection, savouring a cup of tea or coffee while listening to nature’s alarm clock. But for wildlife lovers, it’s time to pull out the camera, clicking away as flocks of birds glide past the paperbark trees and the emerald lagoons of Arafura Swamp.
Off the beaten track
Most days, I’m behind the wheel of our 4WD Mercedes coach – whether we’re heading to a wildlife boat cruise, exploring the bush, or visiting traditional art galleries. Gazing out at the red dirt and pristine wilderness is all part of the adventure.
After a decade of guiding overland journeys abroad, from the Silk Road to a circuit of India, Arnhem Land is still a unique challenge. Our route spans more than 1,180km of unsealed roads and river crossings, and this is one of the last frontiers of remote travel in Australia.
We require permits for entry to towns, sacred sites and national parks in Arnhem Land. This access is made possible through years of building deep, respectful relationships with local Aboriginal communities. I remind guests that we are privileged to visit the lands of the world’s oldest continuous cultures, and we must tread carefully.
GUIDE PROFILE
David Petts
David brings a wealth of experience to Outback Spirit, having spent more than a decade leading overland adventures through some of the world’s most remote regions, from the Silk Road and Mongolia to Africa, India and South America, and now through the spectacular landscapes of Arnhem Land. He's built a deep passion for culture-rich Arnhem Land, and with his extensive guiding experience and love for sharing the stories of this remarkable region, he’s the perfect person to bring Arnhem Land to life for our guests.
Welcome to country
At the start of every tour, we are welcomed to country by traditional owners of the Galpu clan. On the sparkling sands of the East Woody Beach, a large pot of water simmers on the crackling open fire, wafting smoke in every direction. This is a heartfelt welcome, which allows us passage to the clan’s ancestral lands.
In soft, deep tones, our Aboriginal guide, Larry Gurruwiwi, sings and plays the yidaki, or didgeridoo, supported by generations of his family: mothers, fathers, grandparents and children.
Before setting off for our multi-day adventure, we participate in a women’s healing and bush medicine ritual. Waxy butjirinaning leaves are soaked and crushed in warm water to create a healing balm that’s rubbed into our aches and pains.
Yolŋu people have relied on nature’s medicine for pain relief, skin care and as an antiseptic, and now we get to sample these remedies, drifting away to the sounds of waves lapping on the shore.
Living art galleries
Art is an integral part of Arnhem Land’s culture, and we stop at three art centres on this trip: Buku-Larrŋgay Mulka Centre, Bula'bula Arts and Maningrida Arts & Culture.
Aboriginal artists use different mediums, including logs, bark, fabric and silks, to illustrate their rich history and stories. To appreciate the intricacies of their work, we have guided tours in each centre, following in the footsteps of David Attenborough, who once visited here.
The most immersive art experience happens at magical Mount Borradaile, a registered sacred site. Set against the towering escarpment, the rocks are etched with artwork that reveals layers of Indigenous history. Animals, humans and spirits are depicted, with some engravings hinting at contact with outsiders, such as Macassan fishermen and Europeans.
I lead guests on a short, gentle stroll through the bush, to a secluded sandstone rock shelter. Above us, an engraving of a six-metre rainbow serpent is coiled to the ceiling – kept secret until 1987, when traditional owners chose to share it with the world. The artwork in Arnhem Land is so powerful that some of it can make you tingle; the images stay with you long after you leave.
Wildlife encounters
Arnhem Land is a wildlife haven – as you would see from the hundreds of pictures on my camera roll. Skulking crocodiles and vast buffalo get a lot of attention, but some of the most amazing wildlife encounters are more subtle. My eyes are always peeled to show guests rare birds, such as rainbow pitta, or marsupials, including the northern quoll.
For a thrilling wildlife experience, Barramundi Lodge takes guests sport fishing on the pristine waterways of the Liverpool River. Experienced anglers and first-timers can cast into the river’s tangled mangroves and rocky bars with the hopes of landing a barramundi. I’ve cheered guests on as they haul in their first catch – often more than the length of their arm. Back at the lodge, it’s prepared by the chefs and served fresh, with seasonal vegetables such as turnip mash.
Wilderness meets comfort
Our days are full, which is why our lodges pair wilderness with comfort. This might be a small touch, such as a refreshing flannel after a steaming hot day. Three of the five lodges on our itinerary are owned exclusively by Outback Spirit, and these tend to be my favourites.
Murwangi Safari Camp offers an immersive experience, where guests bunker down on comfortable beds under thick canvas tents. Far from a simple swag, these are spacious lodgings, with air conditioning, ensuite bathrooms, hot showers and magnificent views over the Arafura Swamp.
Murwangi only sleeps 24 people, plus guides; you can pour a cold drink and watch a cast of animals flock to waterways to have their nightly tipple. Seven Spirit Bay is the final destination, with beautifully appointed habitat villas. It’s a high note to end on.
Winding down for the night
Our day ends, as it began, with an incredible soundscape and natural light show. Everyone on holiday loves a sunset, but in Arnhem Land the reds, oranges and pinks feel more dramatic as they close like a curtain across the sky.
The night choir cranks into gear, with the distant howling of dingoes, the munching of buffaloes and the sharp “woof” of a barking owl. Even from the confines of your safari suite, you’re surrounded by wildlife.
Lasting memories
It’s more than red dust that stays with you after this journey. I want people to feel the essence of Arnhem Land: its ancient culture and rugged, outback character. Most of all, I hope my guests leave with lasting memories: perhaps an intricate artwork, the delicious taste of their first barramundi catch or new friends from our 13-day adventure.
Arnhem Land Wetlands & Wildlife
Travel where few have the opportunity to experience. Outback Spirit’s Arnhem Land Wetlands & Wildlife tour is a 13-day journey into one of Australia’s most sacred and remote regions. Stay in exclusive lodges, witness breathtaking natural beauty and immerse yourself in one of the world’s oldest living cultures. Earlybird offers from $11,990 per person twin share end 30 September.
